Horse tack includes all the horse tools and accessories that are needed to care for your horse.

Tack can include blankets, lead line, saddle, bridle, and halter.

Selecting the various tack items that properly fits the needs of your horse can be confusing.

To guide you in your selection here are a few tack tips.

The proper horse blanket can improve a horse’s health and can also make your horse happy.

When we domesticate horses, we strip them of some of the natural defenses they have in the wild. This means that a horse looses some of his natural ability to withstand nature when we domesticate it and care for it.

The normal drastic weather changes that occur in regions of the world where there are different seasons gives the horse the need to develop a winter coat or to shed it in the spring.

When stalls shield a horse from the harsh winds and colder winter temperatures, the horse’s natural winter coat may not develop enough to protect him from the cold. This makes a blanket a necessary part of a horse’s tack.

Grooming is another thing we do that takes away the horse’s natural defenses.

The dirt, dead hair, and natural oils that we groom away normally would help to keep a horse warm, another reason for a blanket.

Some horse owners actually clip away the protective winter coat! If this is done it is imperative that you replace the natural coat with a blanket.

Unless the stable is heated, a horse without the natural protection nature gives it, will definitely need a blanket to keep warm.

During the fall, winter and early spring when the weather is cool to cold; a horse needs a well-insulated winter horse blanket.

Turnout blankets can provide your horse with UVA protection and can keep your horse cooler by deflecting the suns rays. It can also prevent the horse’s coat from becoming faded, bleached or discolored from the sun.

Horses with lighter coats or sensitive skin can especially benefit from having a turnout blanket.

Anti-Sweat sheets are used when a horse is worked under the hot summer sun or pastured in hot or humid weather.

Fly sheets are used to help battle mosquitoes and keep your horse cool.

Blankets can also be used anytime a horse is in a paddock or field to help prevent the horse from scraping itself.

Nylon halters and lead lines are the most commonly used because of their affordability and ease of use and how easy they are to clean.

Rope halters and leads are prone to shrinkage when wet, and are difficult to clean. They are easier to grip than the nylon ones. They are better for training than the nylon ones, which can cause rope, burn more easily.

Leather halters and leads are durable and if cared for like being regularly oiled and polished, leather halters and leads will remain supple and functional for many years.

Leather halters and leads are perfect for show but not very practical for training. When brand new they are stiff and should be oiled several times before using them.

The Nylon halter is preferred for its price, and overall usability. It also is available in a range of colors and styles.

The rope halter is best for price and the leather halter is the one to use when appearances are important.

The nylon lead line is easier to clean, and tied for best price-wise with the rope lead lines but for overall usability the rope lead lines are preferred. Leather lead lines are always chosen when showing a horse.

The reasons range from coming in and out of season multiple times, which creates imbalance, to a mare with PMS.

Herbs can help with mild cramping or a severe attitude problem.

Horse lovers should pay heed to the possibilities of herbs; their mares and fillies will thank them for it.

Lets say you have a filly that has gone into season for the very first time.

She may do so multiple times in a month’s time. The difficulty may be minor imbalances in the hormone levels that a little lemon balm, raspberry leaf or chamomile flowers will set right pretty quickly.

You will want to have the filly checked out for cysts on the ovaries by your horse vet.

Chaste Tree berry, Dong Quai root, Licorice root Red Clover and also Raspberry leaf are excellent herbs to use if a mare if between the ages of 5 and 16 years of age.

If you are noticing attitude problems, lack of concentration, or suspect mild to severe cramping which as you know could lead to problems similar to colic, aggressiveness or depression you may want to consider using one of the above herbs and see if there is any improvement.

These herbs are safe to feed your horse, if you have any qualms, ask your vet. Passionflower is also good to use with a mare experiencing aggression issues.

If the mare is experiencing hormone imbalances you may wish to feed herbs such as chickweed herb, dandelion root or nettle; they work well as a diuretic and can be helpful.

If you think you need to flush out her liver you may use milk thistle seed or yellowdock root and burdock.

Check with you vet to clarify that a hormonal imbalance is the issue first, if that makes you feel better about giving her the herbs.

When breeding, getting the hormones balanced and working correctly can increase fertility. If you are having difficulty with getting a mare in foal, she may benefit from hormone balancing herbs during the fall and winter months.

Mares who are suffering from PMS or older mares that may be menopausal can use the same herbs to help with the menopausal mare being on a higher dose of Dong Quai and Black Cohosh.

An older mare may also benefit from Wild Yam. Something else that is of great value regarding mild cramps and regulating the reproductive system is 2,000 IU of Vitamin E (d-alpha and mixed tocopherol).

Bee pollen can also be very beneficial to feed to the older mare. The menopausal mare that is experiencing mood swings or having nervous issues may benefit from Spirulina, which has a high level of Vitamin B and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA).

The GLA helps with not only the hormonal imbalances but will also help to prevent osteoporosis type conditions in your older mare.

If you are wishing to aid the immune system of the older mare consider using an herbal tonic such as Siberian Ginseng and Astragalus.

Being cautious is good, you can always check with your horse vet before feeding herbs to your filly or mare.

In order to make the experience a rewarding one, first time horse owners should take the time to really understand the horse they are buying to be sure that the horse fit the purpose for which it is being purchased.

You want a good match between horse and horse owner or the experience will be frustrating and perhaps an unhappy one.

When purchasing a horse for the first time there are many things besides a good match in purpose to look out for.

You need to look at the training the horse has received, the competitive record if the horse is being purchased to race, the breeding of the horse, you want to have disclosed any defects and have them inspected by a vet,

You also want to discover what the seller’s reason is for selling the horse as this may have a bearing on the quality of the horse.

Young horses and stallions are not suitable for first time owners.

A horse for a first time owner should be trained by a knowledgeable person for the task that the first time owner is purchasing the horse for.

A horse that is suitable for a first time horse owner would be a horse that is at least 6 years of age, is well trained and has a good disposition.

First time horse owners will also need to be sure that they are prepared to shelter, feed, groom and see to the medical and dental needs of the horse.

One necessity of a horse is for shelter. They will need not only an outdoor pasture and corral but also a stable with a stall. The stall size depends on the size of the horse.

8′ X 8′ stalls are fine for ponies and horses up to 12 hands

8′ X 10′ stalls will fit horses from 12 to 14 hands

10′ X 10′ stalls will be good for horses that are 14 to 16 hands

12′ X 10′ stalls will fit horses that are 16 to 17 hands

Horses that are over 17 hands will require a stall that measures 12′X 12′

Grooming tools that a first time horse owner will need to have on hand before the horse is purchased are:

A dandy brush, which is a stiff, bristled brush and used for thick-coated horses and ponies. It removes heavy dirt or is used to clean a long coat.

The bristles may irritate or tickle horses, so care must be used when this type of brush is used on a horse. You can use this brush to damp to lay the mane down.

Shedding blades or combs have a variety of styles and are strips of metal with blunt teeth and a handle on each end. It is used to remove dead hair. When horses shed their heavy winter coats the shedding blade comes in handy.

A body brush is a soft bristled brush with a handle that is used on the head and other boned regions of the horse’s body. They are used with metal currycombs.

Feeding a horse:

Grass or timothy hay is usually a good hay to feed a horse. If the horse is hard working, high energy or young you may do well to give it an additional flake or two of alfalfa.

Horses on average will eat 2 lbs of hay for every 100 lbs of body weight. Horses eat 3 times each day.

When you feed a horse 3 times a day it mimics grazing which is a natural digestive state for the horse and eliminates boredom for horses that are stalled most of the time.

Your feed store will have grains, sweet feeds, and other combination mixes to give to your horse on occasion or if your horse has additional nutritional needs. Your vet can give you advice on the particular nutritional needs of your horse.

A horse needs an unlimited supply of fresh, clean, cool drinking water at all times. Water a horse using buckets or an automatic waterer, or large trough for when the horse is turned out in the pasture.

Free choice minerals or salt blocks are essential for the health of your horse.

You should have these mineral blocks or salt blocks somewhere in the stalls, or in a turnout area where they cannot be rained on.

Essentials:

Every horse needs basic essentials for growth, and good health.

These essentials include proper feeding, fresh and clean daily water, shelter from inclement elements, companionship, exercise, mental relaxation, and freedom from pain is basically what a horse needs.

Variety:

What a horse needs in addition to the basic essentials is variety to break the monotony of life, as well as variety in diet.

Horses love flavor and can be delighted to experience different flavors in their feed including banana, turmeric, oregano, garlic, ginger, rosemary, cherry and peppermint. These flavorings can be added to otherwise unpalatable supplements.

Vary your horses feed by replacing some of the hay with a short chopped hay replacer or a meal extender.

Mix it up a bit by putting the forage in different areas of the stable.

Plant some meadow flowers and herbs in paddocks, including wild thyme, marjoram, parsley and feverfew.

Vary his/her work assignments and you just may see a horse with a livelier step.

Companionship:

Satisfy your horse’s need for companionship by turning him/her out as much as possible with other friendly horses.

Misc:

Do not hesitate to see a veterinarian’s advice if you think you may have a problem with one of your horses.

Do not physically strain any horse, especially while working.

Avoid over-training by allowing plenty of time for any stressful training session, such as loading.

Don’t forget that every horse needs an annual dental check-up, according to the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP).

This annual exam will help to catch dental problems early when they are easier to treat. Dental problems can result in significant weight loss, or colic.

Every horse needs tender loving care from owners who want to spend time with the horse. Giving the horse the attention it needs and deserves.

The time and effort you put into being with and caring for your horse will help to foster that bond between horse and rider that all owners want and horses need.

There are many opportunities to spend time with your horse including grooming, handling, and of course riding.

Horses need owners to be able to pay attention to how a horse communicates.

A horse communicates with the swivel of their ears and by the movements of their hips, and with facial expressions. The horse needs for someone to pay attention to the communication that he/she is trying to forge between you and the horse.

If you provide for the physical needs of your horse, their need for adequate medical and dental care, companionship, proper grooming, and an opportunity to bond with their owner you will have a happy horse.

A quality pasture is worth, well its weight in hay

 Hay prices equates to: You’ld better have a quality pasture. It just makes good horse-sense to make good use of your pasture. How do you do that?

The first thing any horse owner should do is to have a soil test done.

Check your local agriculture extension servive, or ask at a agricultural college if you have one nearby. Students are sometimes interested in doing soil test just for the lab experience.

 Make sure you have the information you need concerning the best grasses to plant for maximum nutrition for your horses. Should you seed in some clover, alfalfa? Do you know what grasses you presently have in your pasture?

Depending on the soil test results, you may need to fertilize; just make sure you keep the horses out of the pasture while you do it.

Follow all instructions on the fertilizer packaging and use a good fertilizer or lime or whatever the test result says you need.

You want to grow the best pasture possible. Make sure you eliminate any weed problems too. 

Block off the field if you will be using a herbacide.

All pastures need regular mowing. You may need to mow two or three times over a growing season. The fresher the grass the more palatible it is for the horses.

Once a month drag the pasture in order to break up piles of manure. This will help to eliminate “contaminated” areas. This will allow the manure to break down more easily as fertilizer.

Make sure that you can rotate the pastures. Do not let horses overgraze in a pasture. Make sure the pastures are level and irrigate whenever needed.

Pastures should have an adequate supply of mineral because the horses will make better use of the pasture grasses.

Pastures are a necessity when you have horses.

Horses need the outdoor time in the sun. Make sure that you keep fresh water in the trough (located in the pasture). The best place for the trough is near the gate. Clean the trough weekly.

You can also use “muck buckets”, secured to the fence and filled with clean, fresh water.

Cold Weather Pasture Care:

Manure mixed with slush or rain can turn into mire and be a real mess, so clean it up quickly.

Before the snow falls pickup and put away trotting poles, jumps or anything else that may prove hazzordous if left out and hidden by snow.

Make sure that all repairs to the pasture all done before the temps dip. Once the ice and snow hits you won’t want to be doing any fence repairs.

If you have any hollows in front of gates or doors make sure you fill them in to prevent ice hazzards.

Install water heaters in your troughs before the first freeze or the horses will not have water to drink.

Also if the water in a trough is too cold, and horses drink it, this can lead to colic caused by impaction. Use a Ground Fault indicator receptacle to plug your water heater in to.

In late fall (depending on what area you are in) fertilize and “frost seed” legumes and grasses.

Your local agricultural office can give you specific recommendations regarding how to care for your pasture during cold weather.

They do need to be trained by someone with experience and will not just know what to do instinctively.

Barrel racing is something that most show horses can learn how to do.

The riders must be taught how to ride the horse through the barrels in just the right way so as to avoid injury to the rider and horse.

You need both patience and firmness when training a horse and rider to barrel race. When the training is done properly both rider and horse will enjoy the sport.

The first thing to do is to introduce the horse to the barrels before you try to ride him around the course.

The horse will need to be comfortable with having obstacles in his path. You must be patient with this process and give your horse the time he needs to become comfortable with the barrels.

Make sure that you do not go through the barrels faster than either the horse or rider are comfortable doing as this will initiate knocking over the barrels.

The rider should always wear pants never shorts.

The rider should also be using safety gear, especially a helmet to avoid serious injuries.

Be patient with your horse and do not rush him. He will learn and be comfortable with barrel racing in his own time.

Train the horse by walking him around the barrel course at a slow pace so that the horse will learn the pattern before you try to race him.

Next, take the horse through the course at a gentle jog.

You can start to gain a little speed as you feel the horse becoming more comfortable with the jog. It is vital that the horse understand that this is a race, so it is important to gain speed.

You want to lope the course, as this is the speed at which you want the horse to go on the course. Once the rider and horse are comfortable with loping through the course, you are both ready now for barrel racing!

More Tips for both horse and rider to follow before the race:

Before your race make sure that you check your horse’s tack to be sure that nothing is irritating him. Examine the saddle pad to be sure it is free of foreign objects.

Check for signs of soreness behind his front legs from the cinch rubbing. Use a fleece-lined nylon cinch.

Make sure that the bit is not pinching the corners of his mouth.

Your horse should have a dental check by your vet prior to the race. Any discomfort will make him nervous and cause him to resist your rein cues that you give to him. Your horse needs to be very responsive so a pre-race dental check is a must.

A horse that does not receive proper nutrition will develop muscle soreness or become hyperactive. A balanced diet is a necessity when barrel racing. Do not have your horse on a high-energy grain supplement.

Make sure that you limber up your horse before the race by performing flexing and bending exercises with him. These exercises will also help to keep him calm and relaxed before the race.

It is imperative that you do not practice barrel racing everyday and that you alternate your pattern work with trail riding. It is also important that both the rider and the horse be relaxed.

Attending a professional horsemanship clinic can help to achieve this state of relaxed horse and rider state.

The skeletal system of a horse is significantly different from that of a human skeleton.

The horse as an average of 205 bones. They do not have a collarbone, but have a front limb system that is attached to the spinal column by a powerful set of muscles, ligaments and tendons that attach the shoulder blade to the torso.

The legs and hooves are very unique as they are proportionately different from those of a human.

The knee of a horse if very much like the carpal bones of a human (the wrist bones).

The hock bones of a horse are like the ankle or heel bones of the human.

The lower leg bones of the horse are very much like the hand and foot bones of the human.

The fetlock is the proximal sesamoid bone between the cannon bones (like the metacarpal or metatarsal bones of the human - fingers and toes) and the proximal phalanges of the horse are located where one might find the “knuckles” on a human.

Interestingly enough the horse has no muscles below the knees and hocks, only skin, hair, bone, tendons, ligaments and cartilage and a very specialized and assorted tissues that make up what is called the hoof.

The digestive system is well suited for an herbivore, which horses are. They mainly grass on grasses and other plant material.

There are basically 3 categories of horse feed; pasture, hay, and concentrates. Pasture food is the greenery found in pastures. Horses doing light work can get along well with just pasture grazing if the area is large.

Hay is the basic food of most domestic horses.

You need to feed horses good quality hay that has been inspected carefully before buying to guarantee that it is not green, that it does not contain dust, or mold.

Hay can be soaked before feeding to be sure there is no dust content. There are three basic types of hay (Timothy, Brome and Alfalfa).

Concentrates are used to feed hard-working horses or pregnant horses or nursing mares, or very young horses.

Concentrates are given to supplement the hay. Concentrates include grains (whole, rolled or cracked) sweet feed (grain mixed with molasses), or manufactured feeds (pellets, cubes, or extruded).

You can feed beet pulp for additional bulk if needed. Beet pellets must be soaked first.

Horses need lots of fresh water. They can drink anywhere from 5 to 10 gallons of water each day.

Horses are known, as ruminants, which mean that they only have one stomach, just like humans.

They have a “hind gut” that is called a cecum, or some people call it a “water gut”, because food goes through this before reaching the large intestine.

A horse surprisingly cannot vomit, so digestion problems can occur that can be serious even fatal, such as colic.

The teeth of a horse are perfectly designed for grazing.

The horse has 12 incisors (six on top and six on bottom) that the horse uses to bite off grass and other vegetation. The horse also has 24 teeth for chewing.

Stallions and geldings have four more teeth behind the incisors that are like canine teeth and are called “tushes”. Some horses may develop small vestigial teeth in front of the molars, known as “wolf” teeth. If they develop these wolf teeth, they are usually pulled because they interfere with the bit.

The hooves are very important to the horse for movement.

The hoof consists of distal phalanges (like a human fingertip or toe), which is surrounded by cartilage and other specialized soft tissue, which is rich in blood (laminae).

There is an exterior hoof wall and a horn of the sole, which is made of the same type of material as the human fingernail is made of.

Horseshoes are made to protect the horse’s hooves. The hooves need to be trimmed and the horseshoes reset approximately every five to eight weeks.

The senses are more developed than those of a human because they are prey animals (other animals prey on them).

This is why the horse has large eyes and excellent vision day and night. They have only a limited range of color vision though.

Horses have difficulty distinguishing between the colors of green, brown and gray. They have a better sense of smell than humans.

They have an outstanding sense of balance and sense of touch, which helps when it comes to warding off flies and mosquitoes.

They need their keen sense of taste to tell the difference between good food and food that is poisonous or spoiled.

There are several types of colic, some fatal.

Your horse will have a happier life if you can learn the preventative measures you can take to avoid colic.

Colic is not a disease or illness, it is a condition.

One cause (type) of colic is displacement. This is when the intestines shift into an unnatural position.

Torsion is when the intestines twist creating a blockage, which can be fatal unless surgery is done soon.

There is really no preventative measure to take for these two types of colic, they just happen. There may be an anatomical predisposition for these types of colic. Thankfully these two types of colic are rare.

Gastric distension can also be a fatal type of colic. This is when the horse consumes too much feed, too quickly. This causes his stomach to expand to the point of distention, which may cause the stomach to rupture.

The preventative measure for this type of colic is to always be sure that the horse is not given more feed than he can safely ingest at one time.

A horse cannot overeat with grass or hay because when they graze, they do so slowly and in such a manner that the horse’s digestive system can handle it. A preventative measure is to make sure that the horse cannot get into the grain or food bins.

Whenever a horse’s regular eating routine is disrupted it can lead to a form of indigestion or constipation.

How To Keep Your Horse’s digestive system healthy:

The bulk of your horse’s diet should be roughage, not grain. His digestive system will have difficulty digesting too much protein in the form of grains or pellets.

If you try to change your horse’s diet or feeding schedule your horse could develop digestive problems.

A horse that does not drink enough fresh clean water dehydrates and the digestive system will slow down. The waste products will not be able to pass through the intestines properly and constipation and colic will result.

A horse that is grazing is almost always moving. The horse is designed for movement. If a horse is in his stall too long his system will slow down and the result will be colic.

The horse will experience stress if you try to increase his training too fast to get ready for a show or race. A too intensive training period can stress the horse and cause colic.

A horse must be allowed to cool down after exercising before eating or drinking. After exercising limit his drinks to small amounts of warm water.

Intestinal parasites can cause colic. A horse should be gradually de-wormed if he has too many parasites it can create a blockage within the intestines if you try to kill too many at once.

Keep your horse calm and happy because stress can cause colic. Things that can cause colic are: transportation, change in ownership, and moving to a new location.

Pregnant mares are at a high risk for colic, before and shortly after giving birth.

A mare that is a little on the plump side when she becomes pregnant is actually ideal, as she will usually do better. You want her to not only make it through the pregnancy but also have enough milk for the foal and a plump mare just does better in both situations.

The mare should be current on all vaccinations before becoming pregnant. Be careful not to give any vaccinations during the first 90 days of her pregnancy.

There basically is not a whole lot to do that is different from normal care during the first 4 to 5 months of the pregnancy.

You can even ride a pregnant mare for the first nine months of pregnancy as long as you do not do any risk activities (jumping, racing etc.). In fact, the mare will benefit from the exercise of riding her.

The foal will start to double in size the last 2 months of pregnancy and this is when the mare should be turned out so that she can get free exercise.

She many experience swollen legs during these last two months of pregnancy and it is preferred to have her free exercise rather than to be ridden.

A pregnant mare needs to have adequate amounts of minerals during her pregnancy, which can be given using a commercial mineral mix that contains 25% salt to increase the palatability of the mineral supplement contained in the mix.

Be careful NOT to feed any other source of salt to the mare while she is on this mineral supplement that contains salt.

When she reaches her 5th, 7th, and 9th months of pregnancy a vaccine for rhino pneumonitis should be given.

This disease is serious, not to the mare but to her unborn foal, as it can cause abortion in pregnant mares and respiratory distress in young horses.

During her last 4 to 6 weeks of pregnancy she will need to be given a routine booster for a variety of equine disease so that she will make new antibodies for these diseases, which will pass on to the foal in the mare’s colostrum when she nurses.

During the first few months of life the foal’s immune system is maturing and until it does the foal will need the antibodies from the mare’s colostrum to stay healthy.

Avoiding parasites:

The mare should be dewormed following a regular schedule until the last month of pregnancy.

During that last month of pregnancy the mare should receive a daily dewormer until the foal stops nursing. Following this deworming schedule will greatly reduce the incidence of parasitism for both the mare and foal.

Hooves During Pregnancy:

Especially during those last two months of pregnancy the mare’s hooves will be carrying a lot more weight and need to be checked more frequently for break up or splaying of the hooves. They need regular trimming and special attention.

A foal needs to have special care from the moment of birth and there are specific things a horse owner must do in order to protect a foal and give it a healthy start in life.

At The Moment Of Birth:

Most mares are very protective of their foals so never, ever get in between a mare and her foal. You will need someone to hold the mare as you care for the foal.

Any birthing difficulties will require the immediate assistance of a qualified horse vet. A vet must examine the foal and mare within the first 24 hours of the birth, sooner if either one experienced any problems during or shortly after the birth.

You must make certain that the foal is breathing at the moment of birth.

Remove any mucus or the fetal membranes if they are still intact. Mucus and the fetal membranes can obstruct the nostrils and prevent breathing.

If you notice that the foal is not breathing, gently twist an ear, slap its face or insert a straw into its nostrils until you hear it sneeze.

Close one nostril and give a few breaths into the other nostril. Sometimes all the foal needs is a brisk toweling after birth. The toweling will not only dry the foal off but also stimulate it to breathe.

An infection caused by microorganisms called, “septicemia” can enter by way of the umbilical stump. You need to dip the umbilical stump in iodine to prevent this infection from occurring.

If the mare is nursing watch to be sure that the foal is nursing successfully.

You should hear slurping sounds if the foal has latched on properly. The first attempt at nursing should happen within the first hour of life and be successful within the first two hours.

If the foal is not successful within the first two hours of birth you will need to intervene with bottle-feeding.

If the foal is not nursing successfully within the first 2 hours of birth or the mare is not nursing, you can bottle feed the foal the colostrum (first milk) about 4 oz. every 15 minutes.

The mare can be milked in order to do this so the foal gets her colostrums, which contain important antibodies to protect the foal’s health.

It is important that the foal have a bowel movement within the first two hours of birth.

If need be, give an enema after the foal nurses or is bottle-fed. Repeat the enema if necessary.

Watch for symptoms of colic if the foal retains the meconium. Notify the vet immediately if the foal has not had a bowel movement or shows any signs of colic.

After the feedings and first bowel movement, leave the mare and foal alone so they can bond.

This is a very special time for them to get acquainted. You can watch quietly at a short distance, but try not to disturb them. If, however the mare makes any aggressive movements towards the foal, be prepared to remove the foal from the stall.

You need to begin the imprinting process by touching its hooves and legs and by tapping on its feet to simulate what shodding will feel like. Touch its ears and nose, and rub gently, its entire body to make it easier to handle the foal when it becomes an adult horse.

Notify your horse vet of the birth of the foal and set up an appointment for its first vaccination.